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A Casa do Porco

São Paulo

A field-to-table funhouse from powerhouse Brazilian chefs

On the Pass

Jefferson Rueda and Janaína Torres

Homage to the hog: Meaning ‘The House of the Pig’ in Portuguese, A Casa do Porco is named for its focus on pork in all its forms, with a tasting menu and à la carte that uses every part of the pig. In recent years, it has adapted to changing dietary requirements, introducing a vegetarian menu that tastes as good as the original, with à la carte options like mushroom sushi and cheese ‘crackling’. The quirkily decorated restaurant is run by co-chefs Jefferson Rueda and Janaina Torres in the heart of downtown São Paulo.

Made of flesh and bone: The latest tasting menu, Somos de Carne e Osso (we are made of flesh and bone) is inspired by the human capacity to make mistakes, learn from said mistakes, and keep growing. It includes charcuterie from Porco Real, a family butchery run by the chefs. In a series of 13 bite-sized courses that follow the nose-to-tail philosophy, the menu features dishes such as cassava crunch and roast pork; a mortadella sandwich with watercress emulsion; pork tartare; onion soup with pork braised veal; and to finish, a sweet note of papaya cream, caramel and jaboticaba [tree grape] ice cream.

In-house production: The restaurant produces everything in-house: pasta, bread, sauces, desserts, sausages… and it’s all made without preservatives or chemical additives. The chefs also run hotdog and ice cream kiosks, have founded the Porco Real brand of burgers and sausages made on their farm, and are community champions, with Torres also a key player in bringing free meals to school children.

Country-inspired cocktails: As well-thought-out as the food, the drinks programme led by Torres includes alcoholic or non-alcoholic cocktail pairings. Based on the idea of reconnecting with the land, the drinks incorporate honey and fruit instead of sugar, with the menu listing provenance and inspiration. Try sake with Riesling and passionfruit, or coconut water with beetroot and spices.

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